
The backdrop for this post is the spectacular scenery of the Greater Caucasus mountains, extending to over 5000 metres in height (Mont Blanc, by comparison, is 4807 metres) but with an added frisson of geopolitical tension as Russia lies just beyond the peaks at the back of the picture and the foreground itself, though in Georgia, lies within the contested region of South Ossetia. The Georgian Orthodox nun who serves drinks to weary travellers at the head of the valley is, at least in part, a defiant territorial statement to Georgia’s powerful neighbour to the north.
The river in the foreground is the Terek, which rises a few kilometres above this point, at the head of the Truso valley, and then swings round to flow north to the Russian border and thence east to the Caspian Sea. The valley forms the major trade artery in the region, the Georgian Military Highway, which was busy with trucks bearing Turkish and Armenian, as well as Georgian plates. But before this heads over the Jvari pass our taxi driver swung off and headed along a rough track for a few kilometres to the point where common sense says that 4WDs only should proceed, leaving us to follow the track into the hills.
It is, however, the light-coloured area to the left centre of the image, 90 minutes or so from our drop-off point, which interests me on this occasion. From a distance it looked like some kind of construction activity was taking place but, close up, it revealed itself to be an extensive area of cream-coloured travertine with, for the most part, a thin trickle of water flowing across it. Parts have a distinctly pinkish-red tinge, suggesting the Cyanobacterium Schizothrix, and some of the wetter areas have soft brown growths that, again, I suspect are Cyanobacteria though I cannot confirm their identities until I have them under my microscope. Technically, travertine is a deposit formed mostly by physical and chemical processes without, as is the case for tufa, any help from biology (see: “Living rocks, gently rolling …”). But I suspect that Cyanobacteria are cutting in on the action when they can in this particular situation.

The Truso valley travertines. The lower image shows a view across the calcareous deposits. Top left shows part of a pinkish-red mat from a small pond whilst top right shows the dark brown growths in a rivulet running across the travertine bed. The image at the top of the post shows the view up the Truso valley just before reaching the travertines.
The geology of this area is complicated, both in the diversity of rock types and their layering and folding, so what follows is an approximate interpretation of what is happening, with some help from Claude. There are extensive beds of permeable Upper Jurassic limestone in the Great Caucasus overlying relatively impermeable Lower to Middle Jurassic shales. When water percolating through the limestone reaches the shale beds it emerges as calcium-carbonate-rich springs. As the supersaturated calcium carbonate-rich water equilibrates with the atmosphere, the calcium is deposited creating the layers of travertine that we could see.
We continued up the valley to the Convent of the Blessed Virgin Mary where we rested and ate our lunch before heading back along the other side of the river. Along the way we encountered more springs, this time without obvious travertine, with a distinctly sulphurous smell and with red deposits characteristic of iron precipitation. Most prominent amongst these was the Abano mineral lake (a pond, really) with streams of bubbles rising through the turquoise water. There were mats of Cyanobacteria mixed in with other vegetation, especially towards the edges but, again, the identities of the organisms will have to remain a mystery until I am back home.

The Abano mineral lake in the Truso valley, September 2026. Note the bubbles of carbon dioxide-rich water coming to the surface and the red colour of the outfall, associated with the precipitation of iron compounds.

Floating mat of Cyanobacteria and associated vegetation at the edge of Albano mineral lake in the Truso valley. The largest growth is about 10 cm across.
I was on Google Scholar almost as soon as I got back, trying to understand more about the geochemistry – and microbial ecology – of this intriguing valley, but no combination of search terms revealed anything of relevance. It may be that there are publications in Georgian or Russian that were not turned up by this search but even the apparently comprehensive Physical Geography of Georgia is very vague on details. I am now intrigued to see what the samples I collected contained (assuming they survive for the next ten days in my luggage), but those will just scratch my own personal itch, A fascinating adventure into microbial ecology and environmental geochemistry awaits anyone who fancies some fieldwork in one of the most spectacular landscapes in Europe.
Reference
Kharadze, K., & Salukvadze, E. (2022). Protected areas and remarkable features of inorganic nature. pp. 181-218 In: The Physical Geography of Georgia (edited by N. Bolsshivili & Neidze, V.), Springer International Publishing.

Mount Kazbegi (5054 metres): the early-morning view from our hotel balcony during our stay in the Caucasus mountains.
Some other highlights from this week:
Wrote this while listening to: a backdrop of Georgian music.
Currently reading: Peter Naysmith’s travelogue, Georgia: in the Mountains of Poetry.
Cultural highlight: icons and frescos inside the Georgian Orthodox churches we’ve visited.
Culinary highlight: many good Georgian meals, but the highlight is probably one in “Cozy Corner” on the edge of Stepantsminda, where we were staying: ostri (a rich meat and tomato stew), lobio (a bean stew), mushroom ojakhuri and very fresh flat bread along with a bottle of Georgia’s distinctive qveri-fermented wine.






























